12-01-2011 I ride into Spain today. I have the picture planned, me standing next to the border sign behind Griboulli, a big European grin on my Florida face.
There is only one problem with that plan. There is no sign or border that I can see. I realize I am in Spain because I pop into a supermarket to find a new and interesting treat and realize that people are speaking Spanish and the food is labeled in Spanish. Oh boy, I can understand more!
I waste no time trying out my rusty espanol. “Buenas dias senior, que ciudad es esta?” (What city is this?)
Huh?
I repeat my self. He just shakes his head. Ok, maybe he is French. Se habla espanol? I thought that meant, “Do you speak spanish?” It actually means “Spanish is spoken.”
He looks at me and waggles his head and then totally ignores me. OK, maybe I need a little brushing up. But I am in Spain- Yay!
My host for the evening Michael lives on the third floor in his condo. He has left me here to have dinner with his parents. I have the house to myself.
In the evening he returns and we use Google translate when we get stuck. Michael is energetic and a quick thinker. He works in the winter as a boiler repairman and in the summer he has a truck from which he sells hamburgers at fairs. His goal is to sell his condo, make a little money, and quit his boiler job. Then he will be free to travel half the year and not work so much. He says the payments aren’t worth it, he would rather have more time than more house. We talk about the cultural differences between living to work and working to live. We certainly have a meeting of the minds.
He sells me on the idea of the El Camino de Santiago religious pilgrimage, also called the way of Saint James. This pilgrimage runs along a high level plain about 70Km south of here west to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The length from Pamplona is about 700Km, or an easy 10 days ride. In 2010 over 270,000 people made this pilgrimage. There are lots of dormitory type places to stay for 5 -10 euros along the way.
I will have a Credencial or pilgrim’s passport. It will be stamped by dorms, resteraunts, cathedrals. In the end I will receive a certificate.
It moves me to undertake this 1000 year old Christian pilgrimage. Though I cannot follow it in belief I can follow it in form and honor this tradition.
Later Jose and his wife Olga drop by. Olga speaks English. She works with Moroccan immigrants. Jose is 34 and unemployed due to the economic crisis in Spain. He used to work as a Machinist. They encourage me to stay an extra night and have a traditional Basque dinner. Michael then offers to cycle with me to Pamplona on Saturday. I was planning on staying just one night but how could I refuse such kind hospitable friends?
The terrain has changed again. Ahhh, this is more like what Spain looked like in my imagination.
Sitting in a park taking in the view.
My room at Michaels. I’m studying a map of Spain and Portugal.
I was in France 18 days. Statistics:
Accommodations cost: $78.00 (In US dollars)
Food Costs $12.26 a day average
Miles cycled: 686
Days rested: 3
Average mileage on days cycled: 45.7
Total of all costs in France including postage, sim card, admissions, etc: $315.57
Daily average: $17.53
As a reader/watcher, it seems, with your ‘clip,’ that you have been having one night affairs with countries. I can hear France telling England, “He left me already! Does he not know my history?” Perhaps they only caught your attention and not your heart. But I say that not fully understanding your objectives as you traverse these places, your financial resources, or what it takes to ‘see the world’ by bike without being out there for decades. Regardless, saying “yes” to another night for a traditional dinner and yes to the mentioned event is good. It seems it would add richness to your journey (and your blog) and will help with not feeling lonely out there. It seems in line with your life emphasis: the Ursula le Guin mentality- “It’s good to have an end to journey towards, but it’s the journey that matters in the end.” Now, if I could just, selfishly, request that you include more pictures of these people you write about and maybe take us into some interactions or places by video – to the extent that its authentic to what YOU want. Heck, we haven’t even gotten to hang out in your tent with you yet on a cold rainy night when you’re stealth camping and low on food!
Safe and pleasant riding… Eric
Of course I said yes! Guess that wasn’t clear. Sometimes I am too busy living to document it! The living is what is important to me, the documentation is secondary. It’s true, I don’t have any objectives, I don’t want them. Things seem to happen appropriately without them. Objectives get in the way of the what is. Lennon points to it; “Life is what happens to you while you’re busy making other plans.” I am still a child developing my relationship with life, learning to trust it deeply.
Very nicely said. Sorry for interfering. You know, buddy, I think sometimes my own TV Show dreams come through my comments. I’ll step back more and just enjoy watching your journey as you take it. It’s very inspiring. On another note, Isabella asked me to put up the tree tonight. Christmas music is playing, lights are on, and I decided with a renter to throw a big party this year; have been a social doorknob for two years. You were at my last big party, and you’ll be missed. Maybe we can skype you if Alan and others you know are here. Finally, my family has friends throughout Europe, so if you want some connections, especially in Italy, feel free to ask. You definitely must be with some loving people for the holidays. Have a great weekend!
Blessings to You Shawn, on your continued self awakening journey, and the joys you find in nature.
It sounds like the people you are meeting are very helpful and caring.
I always love the gifts that come from traveling, and
the ideas of places and things you might have missed if you hadn’t
connected with the people that shared.
The pilgrimage sounds like a huge connecting with people and places to stay,
all set up along the way, wow, what an event.
Again, great pictures, thanks for the share.
Hope You and Michael have a wonderful ride Saturday.
Be Well and Happy travels ~ Cynthia
Thanks for the well wishes Eric and Cynthia! today is going to be interesting, a ride with Michael to Pamplona to the start of the the pilgrimage. Life is so surprising.