2/18/2012 Ascending the Atlas


I’ve been worried about today ever since I decided to head to Marrakech, because it meant climbing the Atlas mountains again. I was worried because 1, it’s cold; 2, there’s not a lot of hotels; 3, it is physically challenging. Leslie even offered to pay for my bus fare over the mountains as a Valentines day present!

It’s not hard to turn being scared into being scared and challenged. So I set off.

The road follows a river valley.

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Of course there’s lots of Kasbah’s, lived in,

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and eroded.

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I climb up into the snow zone. The sunshine is hidden in the white clouds swirling around the mountain peaks.

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Looking back as the road leaves the valley.

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Such expansive vistas! It’s Saturday, not a lot of traffic. I ride in the middle of my lane.

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At 7,400 feet. I started at 4,200 feet. There are a lot of climbs and descents.

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A frozen waterfall. It is quite cold up here.

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Did I mention switchbacks?

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But I made it 95 KM to Taddert. I am shivering cold when I arrive, but my shirt is still wet with sweat. I get my gear into my room, and go down and order a hot tea, just to wrap my hands around the pot and stop the shivering.

Here is the view of my town looking up the street.

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Looking down the street. This is the biggest town en route and there is one hotel in it.

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I’m lucky that the room is 80dh and the restaurant is fairly priced. The room is unheated of course. It is supposed to get to -3 Celsius tonight. I know what to do. Put on all your clothes, put the sleeping bag on the bed, and climb in. In half an hour I am warm all over.

It’s just under 100KM to Marrakech. A lot of that will be descent. That means it will be cold. When my legs get cold they get stiff making pedaling difficult. A bulge has developed in the back rim! I’ve had to loosen the back brake so much that it is almost ineffective.

Tomorrow, Marrakech! (fingers crossed)

11 thoughts on “2/18/2012 Ascending the Atlas

  1. Safe travels. I just want to say your blog is excellent. Pictures are wonderful. Feel like I’m getting a taste of your journey. Really appreciate the effort you go to in documenting things. It would be so easy to blow it off given the fatigue, temperature and countless inconveniences.

  2. By the way, could you give us an idea of what is to come? Does your trip end soon? Then it’s back to the U.S. for a while? What are your thoughts on touring more of Africa? If you come home to the U.S., what are your thoughts on heading back out? Where? When? And, most of all, would you change anything about how you’ve gone about your travels to make it more enjoyable? If people riding with you would help, I would love to ride a bit with you through Switzerland and Italy!!! If not there, I want to go to Australia in January of next year. If you head there, I’m in. Thanks again for sharing your travels. I know I posed a lot of questions, and it’s cold. So…no expectations on answers.

    • Thanks Eric! Writing the blog is a great benefit to me.

      Would I change anything about my travels to make them more enjoyable? They are enjoyable, just not always “fun”. Traveling like this is like a job that you enjoy. Now I know what to expect. Breaking up the time by returning home is my best idea for making it more enjoyable.

    • Yes, I agree. Here’s the problem I run into. I need to have a youtube link to paste into my blog for video, so I have to upload my video to youtube. Given the upload speed of you tube, and my internet speed, this can take 10 to 15 hours, assuming the internet link is not dropped by the carrier. I have tried to upload a couple overnight, and just ran out of time or the link was broken.

  3. This town’s not like the last……obviously……funny no picture of the food
    Glad you made it. I’m just letting myself
    wrap my head around how high that is, wow.
    I’m guessing that’s your only tire. If you let some of the air out of the tire
    would It be better for the descent and the tire ??
    I don’t know, would it help ?
    Would an extra pair of pants help to keep your leg muscles warm for
    This situation ?
    Wishing you and your bike a great outcome.
    Happy trails

    • I’m going to let air out of the tire. It is the wheel that has cracked, but the tire puts pressure on it. I will stop and look at it frequently today. I’ll have to get it replaced in Marrakech.

      Yeah no pics of the food. Fresh orange juice from a glass washed by dipping in a bucket of water. Shelled walnuts with a lot of the shell left in. “Kefka” which is grilled hamburger served with a piece of bread. I did have a tomato and onion salad which was good.

      I’ll wear both pants. I usually keep one unsweated though for sleeping in.

  4. Wait, wait, wait….
    Shawn if you still would have the Primus stove there or rescue bag, would be no problem with the temperature :)
    I have both, ofcourse :P

    • You are so prepared. You could pour the fuel rom the stove over the plastic trash bag- oops, I meant to say rescue blanket, and make a small but smelly fire in the room. I take back everything I ever said about you carrying too much! ; )

      Hey, I’m in Marrakech and the weather is wonderful. Wish you were here!

  5. Hey Shawn
    What about asking Leslie or your ‘manager’ to do it? Maybe send the file over by YouSendIt.com Or, you are on wordpress.com – why not just get the upgrade to their video hosting service. It’s probably faster and better quality than YouTube. Not sure if either idea works, but they are possibilities. Also, could you compress the files to make it smaller? Keep the videos short? Just ideas. If not on this round, maybe when you’re back in the States for a bit you’ll figure out a way. There is always a way. You are, after all, the guy who finds a way to make things happen….like the tracks you built for gliding a camera. Probably won’t check back on this. So no worries about a response. Hope you get some ideas… Eric

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