6/27/2013 Halfway River East Nova Scotia to Port Elgin, New Brunswick

I woke up rarin to go, and so I did. I’ll be on Prince Edward Island tomorrow, a place that a few months ago I would have guessed was in Europe, and now seems like a place that I know well through reading.

Cycling through Cumberland County is pretty flat. Again, I just let my legs do the work and try and not to think for them. We travel 30 some miles by 11:00 and make Amherst.

I find a bargain- only 40,000 and I bet they’d take less because the paint on the sign is faded to illegibility. And it sits on 6 acres!


Little house, big water at Baie Verte, a small part of the Northumberland Strait.


Amherst gives me the willies- it creeps me out. I don’t know why, it is too pussed up and churchfilled and seemed to sneer “We have it all figured out and if you don’t agree get out.” I feel tension and fear and posturing in the populace.

Despite the visitors center question mark logo, and the arrow pointing into town, there is no visitor’s center. The old church seems to be the town center, and when I stop there the secretary confides that “they like to leave it up because it sends people to town who visit the church.” She is a friendly peach and lets me sit in the church and use their wifi.

Someone tells me to “get the hell back where I came from.” A more friendly soul tells me about a bicycle trail that runs to the base of the bridge to Prince Edward Island. Perfect! I resolve to look for it.

I find it! It’s part of the trans-Canada bicycle trail that is nearing completion.


It starts off pretty.


It seems to be paralleling highyway 16, which makes sense. It is through swampish land, and is slow going. The soft surface, dodging potholes and puddles and avoiding the biggest bumps takes concentration and lower gears.

After 10 miles or so I am getting pretty tired of getting beaten up. And then I hit a long stretch of this large loose gravel.


It is unrideable. I keep having to stop to keep from falling. Who ever designed this as a bicycle trail should be forced to ride a bicycle on it- that would be severe punishment. I give up and push the bike a ways. But the coarse gravel seems to go on and on. So I turn around, and walk a half mile back to a cross street and ride the paved road. What a relief!

It’s raining. I’m camped just off the highway behind some bushes, far from ideal, but it is too wet and darkish to ride the highway. 59.5 miles. Prince Edward Island tomorrow!

One thought on “6/27/2013 Halfway River East Nova Scotia to Port Elgin, New Brunswick

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