6/07 and 6/08 2014 Lushoka

My good Olympus camera has stopped working. All the bumpy rutted roads might have done it in.

The morning brings a steep long descent into a valley. We get very hot riding today. The descent helps, as I have arrythmia again. The road levels and my arrythmia leaves.

The day gets late and directions to the next town that might have a guest house vary greatly. At last we decide to ask a family permission to camp on their land. They suggest we camp in their backyard.

Most of the small village- about 20 people- gather to watch us set up the tent and to offer a hand. The young man brings us a bucket of water to bath with in their outhouse- which has a squat toilet and is clean. After bathing we sit on the foundation of the house and hang out as the kids scramble to get close to us.

Later we are invited in to eat. The house is a good house, concrete block with a metal roof and no windows. The wind whistles through the open eaves. We eat by a 5 candlepower LED light that is charged with a solar panel. Dinner is rice from the family farm. I share a plate with one of the men as there are not enough for the four of us.

The girls sit in the shadows and watch, serving us.

Dinner is served with soured milk from a soda pop bottle, which I enjoy, followed by a wonderful Papaya and a coconut. We are given their best, and are very appreciative.

At night in the tent I listen to the sheep and goats 20 feet away fart and sneeze. The watchdog is tied up 10 feet from the tent and goes on a barking jag everytime Sage and I say a word. The wind howls and buffets the tent and I feel fine red sand landing on my face. At last sleep comes.


We ride in the land of the Baobob trees and the Masai’s; those tall slender cryptic silent people dressed in bright red robes and always carrying a stick and a machette.

The road is so rutted and stony that I ride in my low gears all day, thrashing along. Sage hopes for warm water, a western toilet and an AC in the evening. We settle for a bucket of water and an electric bulb. There are not a lot of choices!

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