Susan awoke and looked out of the window. The sky was clearing. She got her cycle loaded and waited for me. “Susan, it’s 5:00AM, what are you doing?” “I couldn’t sleep. Must have been the tea last night.”
So we left early, hoping to get to Port George today.
The scenery was stunning.
We took the old highway one for a while. It has been replaced by the Trans Canada highway. Small hotels hang on, their vacancy signs lamenting a bygone time.
We made it to St George just in time to catch the noon ferry to Digby, Nova Scotia.
Lifeboats are ready to go.
Rope ladders are at the ready to lower us to safety.
We find a hostel and take a walk around Digby.
Digby harbor is mostly working fishing boats.
After walking I am hungry. I eat at three shops in a row. First was Subway, a 12″ vegi, second was the Pizza place next to it, and finally a double dip ice cream at the shop next to that. I was finally full.
In the evening I worked on a few of Natalie from Germany’s photos. A very nice hostel in Digby- the Backpackers Hostel.
When we left Audries house my heart was in Arrythmia. We went very slowly for a while, and I was normal-as I’ll ever be- by lunch.
It has been raining, and we have been riding in it. Susan is paying for a hotel each night, that was our deal, as I woud have been camping.
We rode today singing for fun. I love to sing outloud and ride.
Here are a few shots of St Andrews, a very popular tourist town.
Susan on the pier.
St Andrews from the pier.
My favorite- a shot of the clams in the shallow water around the pier. It looks like a Monet.
It’s supposed to be suny tomorrow.
Today Susan and I cycled our longest day- 74.5 miles. Susan was a real Marine, and only needed 2 coffees and one Coke despite the hills and headwinds.
Theis beautiful falls was in Millbridge, Maine. The native americans named it “Big Bad Falls.”
Somebody has a sense of humor.
The Maine countryside is so lovely.
At last we arived at Aufries home. It is the last house on a dirt road. You can see Canada across the inlet, St. Andrews.
Such an amazing setting.
Here is Audrie’s kitchen, all the copper pots came from France.
Happy Birthday Audrie!
The house was filled with family pictures and portraits and art.
The dining room awaiting the birthday guests.
And my cozy bedroom.
I am learning a lot about Maine and the people that live here. I admire their rugged independance, I see the old money, I talk to well educated people often. Their short growing season- from late June to early September- astonishes me.
A really good trip.
From Bar Harbor to Millbridge Maine.
Instead of cycling all the way, Greg and Linda gave Susan and I a ride in their VW bus to Ellsworth this morning. I blame lack of cycling diligence entirely on Susan.
We did cycle 28 miles to Millbridge. Susan said she would have cycled further but Shawn was whining about how heavy the just purchased groceries were. Having evenly distributed the blame for our anemic performance I’ll continue with the story.
Except that is the story. All I have are these scenery pictures:
And this shot of your heros bucking themselves up for an ardous ride- tomorrow!
It is going to be raining today, and Susan has found some friends Greg and Linda to give us a ride to Bar Harbor. I discover I have a flat and set out to repair it on James’ front porch.
Sidetrack- check out this cool birdhouse
So Greg and Linda and Susan and I arrive at Everett’s home. His girfriends Sonya is there from her home on Cranberry island. Everett takes Susan and I on a whirlwind tour of Acadia park. I look for the hostel where I met Sage, my other cycling friend years ago, but it has been converted to a resteraunt.
Acadia Park Photos:
My friend Susan and I:
It’s my birthday and I decide to do something new and location appropriate- eat a Maine lobster. I am assured of having plenty of coaching from my table of experts, but first I have to put on the bib. Seriously!
After inspection it is determined that I am eating a girl lobster. This does not help. Anything that identifies this crustracean as an individual makes eating it too personal.
Well, it does taste alright. And it is filling. Still, sucking meat out of an external skeleton, uhhhhh.
New England spirit is alive. The resilience, small businesses, local pride, the education and can do attitiude are felt here. I am at home in the attitude.
But Susan and I let our concerns about the weather keep us from cycling today. The weather report was dire; lots of rain, flood warnings, end of the world type stuff. We thought about cycling in that on a narrow road with no shoulder and opted for the comforts of James home and hospitality. We spend the day wandering Camden. I feel sheepish (but secretly glad).
Camden is a picture book Maine harbor town:
An overview of Camden.
A rushing creek splits in two and flows into the harbor.
Camden has a high ecological consciousness. Here is a good idea for Transition.
There are two towering steeples.
The harbor has some tall ships that you can sail on.
Shop windows are enticing.
Azaleas, Rhodies, Lupen are in bloom accenting the greens, and the Dandylions invite puffing.
And when you turn your head theres the sea and it’s boats.
All this and a two hour nap. Thanks James!
I met Susan this morning after exploring Portland by bicycle. Such a charming small city on a peninsula.
There was the remains of a narrow gauge railway.
I am trying to create a video record for Susan of each days travels for the practice. It will show how she overcomes her fears and other physical issues by tapping. It is calld “Tapping up the coast” and is on you tube.
There is so much lovely water. I love big water and little houses.
The Maine countryside is so verdant.
The days ride is uneventful for me, Susan has issues with her legs cramping and breaks a helmet mirror. We rest and walk when she has trouble.
We are hosted in a lovely multistory waterfront home by Darwin and Arra and pass the evening talking about Maine history.
My sweet room has a window overlooking the river. Thank you!
One of the hardest parts of the Journey is leaving, especially when life is very, very good. The last goodbyes and assurances pull at my heart and make me wonder if I am doing the right thing. The feeling lasts all through the flight, the arrival, the assembly and testing of the bike, and finally eases once the wheels start spinning and the world starts unrolling.
All I find is a tiny country store on my ride to the campground, so dinner is a can of Bar Harbor sardines on bread with a cup of hot water. Breakfast will be a can of Bar Harbor Clam Chowder. This suits me just fine. Life is simplifed to it’s essence living this way and I find it plenty good. (I chuckle at myself, living a “simple life” with my laptop and high tech bike) Oh well, embrace contradictions!
A Hedge Hog sculpture near the Portland airport.
Working on the Macbook Air, a great computer for travelers.